Kodak Retina Ia





Lens is a Retina Xenar 50mm/3,5, the frame counter is stuck, but everything else is fine, even the bellows.







Film stand developed at room temperature for 25min. Fresh mixed baths (Tetenal colortec)

The other side (II)


Shooter and pointer






Gorilla and chimp(er)

Olympus 35 ECR



I bought the 35 ECR in 2009, shot two rolls with it and forgot it. Shame on me, it´s a fantastic camera. It only has the common ECR disease, a corroded battery wire. When I tape the batteries to the rest wires, it fires away, only the battery change is tricky.







Watameter Rangefinder





I bought it for the use with my Rollei 35 but found that an external rangefinder isn´t my toy.

Statistics for 2010

The year 2010 is over and I have finished the frame count for the year:

My archive contains the following films:

120 B&W: 12 rolls > 120 frames
135 B&W: 95 rolls > 3420 frames
135 C-41: 77 rolls > 2772 frames
The Rollei project: 133 rolls > 4788 frames

From January to August I used digital too:
January: 123 pictures
February: 816 pictures
March: 1680 pictures
April: 465 pictures
May: 476 pictures
June: 392 pictures
July: 1974 pictures
August: 525 pictures
Complete digital: 6451 pictures

Complete analogue and digital: 17551 frames

Used cameras:

Analogue:
Linhof 220, Nikon F-301, Beauty Lightomatic II, Olympus mju-II, Konica Off-road, Olympus Trip, Nikon FM, Vivitar 35ES, Canon AF35ML, Chinon CE-II, Chinon Bellami, Ricoh 800EES, Zorki 1, Nikon 801s, Ricoh R1, Nikon F-601, Nikon FG, Nikon FG-20, Nikon F-50, Olympus XA4, Konica FS-1, Pentax ME, Lomo LC-A, Konica AF-3, Yashica 35GS, Yashica T5, Olympus mju-I, Kiev 4A, Canon AV-1, Olympus 35RC, Konica C35, Konica Recorder, Rollei 35, Olympus OM-1, Nikon Pronea S, Canonet 28, Nippon, Contax 137MA, Contaflex Super, Karat 36, Nikon 35AWAF, Praktica MTL5B, Retina Ia, Agfa Ambi Silette, Porst Hapo 36,

Digital:
Minolta Dimage 7i and Nikon Coolpix 5600

Things to come

The first six months of my exclusive use of the Rollei 35 are over, but I did not stop buying cameras.
Here is a first teaser for the things to come after August the 14th, 2011:

1)
Kodak Retina Ia with Schneider Xenar 3,5/50mm
I had a Retina with a Xenar 2,8 before, but it broke. Luckily I found this one on a flea market.
2)
Agfa Optima 1535 Sensor with Solitar 2,8/40mm
I had several models of the Agfa Optima Sensor series but a nice working rangefinder model is top of the list!
3)
Penti I with a brick of Orwo NP 20 SL cassettes
Agfa Rapid and Orwo SL are identical film systems and the Penti I with it´s unique film transport rod is a nice toy.
















4)
Pentax Spotmatic SP II with Takumar 1,4/50mm
No need to say anything about this camera and lens, except the fact that some guy sold it to me for five Euro!
UPDATE: While playing with the Spotmatic, the aperture of the Takumar blocked:-(
5)
Nikon Af 600
A small and light P&S with 28mm lens
6)
Canon EOS 650 with Sigma 3,5-4,5/28-70mm
The worlds first AF-SLR, a big and heavy beast with a great handgrip and surface.
7)
Watameter rangefinder for the use with the Rollei 35 in the dark season
UPDATE: This doesn´t work for me! I used it a few times and found that it doesn´t match with my photographic style!
8)
Konica Big Mini
9)
Canon MC
10)
Sigma 28mm/2,8 in Nikon Ai mount
11)
Canon EOS 620 with 50mm/1,8 II (and Data Back)

Rollei 35 and Polypan F





There will be not much action for the next months, because I started a project called
"Rollei 35 and Polypan F".
The according blog is here: CLICK
The task is to shoot exclusively the Rollei 35 and the Polypan F for one year.
Exposing (50 ASA), developing (stand development in APH09 1+100) and scanning (Canoscan 8400F @ 3200 dpi)
shall be done under the same conditions for the whole year too.





Agfacolor CNS

I showed my son some of my old cameras and films, including a 126 cassette and a roll 120 of Agfacolor CNS. He asked me if it could still be developed.
I knew that there are some labs that still do C-22 for insane prices, but what I wanted to know was if it could be done at home.
What I found in the net was a manual for mixing the chemicals an advice to develop the film as a B&W (which I had done before, getting blank negatives) and some discussions about using C-41 chemistry. The advices were very academical and controvers. Some told to harden the film before developing, some said the temperature had to be hold low to avoid damage, some told to harden the film before blix, some said the blix of C-41 would loosen the emulsion.

To make this short: I put the film (120) onto the reel, filled in my expired developer at room temperature and let it stand for one hour - no agitation! I did the same with the blix. On the film, that I had bought with a Agfa Box, I found four frames, somewhat underexposed but visible. They hang to dry now, scans will follow tomorrow.

Summary at this point: Stand developing at room temperature in the C-41 process gives useable negatives from C-22 films.

The examples show the color aberrations that can be expected from a film that was stored in the camera for 20 years and then on my shelf for another 15 years, estimated time!